I wanted to make sure that all was well with the document hosted at Scribd so I printed the file directly from there as anyone would have to. I took the 8" pattern to Kinkos and had an associate enlarge the pattern to 12" (150%). I chose this size because I needed an 11" block for the Twilight (Mystery) Quilt. (I verified that the pattern copied to size before using it.) The enlargement cost me $1.50 since the large format copy machine was used because of the paper size needed. I only had one copy made to save money as I planned on copying the pattern in sections for sewing so I could save my original. (I always accidentally miscut for one reason or another no matter how careful I am.)
Copying the pattern on my home printer was easy enough except when it came to the M section. This section is 12" long, the length of the pattern and the only section in the pattern that was like this. I copied this section in two copies and taped them together at M4. (I probably should have just had a couple of copies made because by the time I printed numerous copies at home, I don't think I saved much money. I would have probably ran back to Kinkos when I realized my problem with M4, but I was too lazy.)
I carefully picked my fabrics this time. I wanted my greys to be more subtle for shading in this block. I was really nervous about the fabric I picked for the hands (white in the pattern), but I'm pretty pleased with its effect to the block--so much that I bought more for other quilts. I remembered a trick I've read about and used it in this block. The light grey had a pattern that I wanted to tone down so I actually used the back of the fabric. I also used the back of the black fabric (background black) for the medium grey.
Sunkissed Misty Grey Curls by Sweetwater/Moda (l)
Color Connectors (black), Free Spirit (r)
I had no problems in sewing the pattern. I used the Fabric Legend for fabric placement. I found only one thing that I need to update in the Fabric Legend: F4 is listed as grey only and it should be dark grey. I will make the change for the hosted document.
I do want to note that even with very careful sewing, I did experience some shrinkage of the block as much as 1/8" in some areas and it didn't finish square so, in other words, the block didn't finish exactly to size 12.5" unfinished. This isn't unusual for paper pieced blocks with this many seams and since I didn't sew with a scant 1/4" seam. Please note: there is nothing wrong with the pattern. I simply carefully squared up the block upon its completion. As there isn't that much seam allowance to spare in the bottom of the block, one should be very careful. Squaring up the block isn't that much of an issue, though, because of the length of the arms and I really don't think it detracts from the block in any way.
**It will probably be best to make the block slightly oversized by enlarging the pattern just to be safe and to allow for any shrinkage.
I also didn't have any problems with sections lining up. I think one can see that the block finished as drawn. The finger sections are tricky, but very doable.
Block has been squared up to 11.5" unfinished.
Do I have any tips?
I use my glue stick to temporarily tack down the 1st piece of all my sections.
I used my Add an 1/8th Ruler to trim seam allowances, to cut down on the bulk of seams in many of the sections.
I take all the paper off before I sew my sections together. This is my preference as many people will tell you to leave it on until the block is finished as many believe it helps line up sections better and adds stabilization while sewing, but I feel like it interferes with accuracy because of the bulk. I use my Hera Marker to mark the 1/4" seam allowance of one of the sections I'm joining to make sure they match up before I sew them--I don't baste, but I do pin aggressively. The line made by the Hera Marker can be used as a match point.
The white line made by the Hera Marker is 1/4". It can be matched up with the edge of the section below. After the seam is sewed and the sections are flipped and pressed, the edges and interior block areas should match correctly. (If you want to doubly make sure that points match before sewing, this marked line can also be pinned temporarily and the section flipped back to check matches. The sections could also be basted by sewing with a large stitch or even glue basted.)
I've made a slideshow of some of the pictures I took documenting the block construction.